I have been seriousy considering getting into racing in some form or another lately. I am a member of the SCCA and I think this summer I'd like to try some events. I'll probably just stick to Solo this year and get a feel for things. Autocross seems fun and I wont kill my car. Then if I like how things are going I'd like to try and advance to bigger and better things.

So, my point to this thread is this: I know there are more than a few racers and ex-racers on this site. I just wanted to know who they are, what class and events they raced and in what cars they raced.

Also, any tips and things to say about racing to guide me and anyone else who is interested would also be appriciated.

Thanks guys.

i raced go-karts here in PR. left racing cause here we don't have events like solo or autocross so i can't race my car.

SCCA? You sure you wanna do that to the M3? Lol..

If I were you I would just join a local club and join the weekend track meets. There are tons of them, and they're generally pretty fun assuming you have some good competition.

Once you get a feel for racing, and you don't mind going a little more hardcore on the M3 (removing interior parts, built suspension, dinan intake/exhaust, ECU, etc) then I would move up to the SCCA. Solo or Solo II might be ok, I haven't really looked into it, but.. I would still go the first route.

SCCA? You sure you wanna do that to the M3? Lol..

If I were you I would just join a local club and join the weekend track meets. There are tons of them, and they're generally pretty fun assuming you have some good competition.

Once you get a feel for racing, and you don't mind going a little more hardcore on the M3 (removing interior parts, built suspension, dinan intake/exhaust, ECU, etc) then I would move up to the SCCA. Solo or Solo II might be ok, I haven't really looked into it, but.. I would still go the first route.

Yea, I am still trying to decide how often I want to track the M. I figured that autocross wouldnt be too rough on the car. And autocross would be as far as I would take the car. If I went further I would get a different car to track.

Only been running a few laps on tracks legally.
Then done a lot of stuff I'm a little less proud about and won't discuss here.

Any form of racing is rough on your car.

I've raced E Stock and Class D Prepared SCCA for a few years along with drag racing. If you can afford it get a Scirocco or an X-1/9 or something to track race. Scirocco's are D Stock class I think... anyway, thats what you should do IMO. Don't just take an M3 out on the track against other cars. Start with something you can handle crashing. Don't EVER NEVER EVER race your only vehicle! lol

I've raced E Stock and Class D Prepared SCCA for a few years along with drag racing. If you can afford it get a Scirocco or an X-1/9 or something to track race. Scirocco's are D Stock class I think... anyway, thats what you should do IMO. Don't just take an M3 out on the track against other cars. Start with something you can handle crashing. Don't EVER NEVER EVER race your only vehicle! lol

Yea, well that why I would only autocross the M. That way the only thing I hit are cones (which could still do slight damage). I dont think I will ever really track the M, at least competition wise, besides autocross.

Thanks for the suggestions on cars to track. Thats awesome the Scirrocco is a D stock class. I love Sciroccos and all VW as you know. I'm even more pumped now.

The Scirocco is a very well balanced car. Very good for road racing.

I agree, Sciroccos are great. Older Ludes and Integras make bad *** auto-cross cars. I've raced some auto-cross, (SCCA and Tri-State). Also a number of different road course events in different cars, series, etc.

PS- Auto-Cross beats the S*** out of your car, and I would definitely agree w/ Monkey that racing your daily driver is not a good idea.

I agree, Sciroccos are great. Older Ludes and Integras make bad *** auto-cross cars. I've raced some auto-cross, (SCCA and Tri-State). Also a number of different road course events in different cars, series, etc.

PS- Auto-Cross beats the S*** out of your car, and I would definitely agree w/ Monkey that racing your daily driver is not a good idea.

Really? I didnt think it would be as rough on the car since its in an open area and no other competitors or walls to hit. Thanks for the info, maybe I'll be looking for a different car to use for autocross then.

Don't EVER NEVER EVER race your only vehicle! lol

.....Unless you have a trailer or some sort of tow vehicle.

I'd imagine Autocross is tough on your car. You're always stopping and turning real hard. Sure, you're not going really fast, but it's still alot of stress.

As Attaus mentioned before, club events and track days could be fun. You don't really have any pressure, and you can learn from fellow racers on how to set up and drive your car to it's abilities.

Monkey is totally right about not racing your driver car. Not only is there the chance of damaging your car, you also have to consider the stress on pertinant componets. You may drive home after racing sunday,but walk to work on monday. Also remember that building and owning a race car is just the begining of the expense.. Maintaining, improving,and racing the car are bigger expenses. There is no cheap way to race, unless you enjoy losing..Someone is always there spending money, unless you are willing to do the same, you are just chasing him. Also you have to do a LOT of homework. This is one of the most important things.If you are just copying what someone else has done, all you will ever be is as fast as them. You have to study, experiment, and even come up with your own combinations just to maintain an edge

Also you willhave to develope a thick skin.If you are winning, that means someone is complaining. If you are racing you are either a loser or a target

I always recomend the old datsun 510s for beginner racing. They are rwdwith an irs.They are also well balenced.

Monkey is totally right about not racing your driver car. Not only is there the chance of damaging your car, you also have to consider the stress on pertinant componets. You may drive home after racing sunday,but walk to work on monday. Also remember that building and owning a race car is just the begining of the expense.. Maintaining, improving,and racing the car are bigger expenses. There is no cheap way to race, unless you enjoy losing..Someone is always there spending money, unless you are willing to do the same, you are just chasing him. Also you have to do a LOT of homework. This is one of the most important things.If you are just copying what someone else has done, all you will ever be is as fast as them. You have to study, experiment, and even come up with your own combinations just to maintain an edge

Also you willhave to develope a thick skin.If you are winning, that means someone is complaining. If you are racing you are either a loser or a target

I always recomend the old datsun 510s for beginner racing. They are rwdwith an irs.They are also well balenced.

Thank you for the suggestion on the car. Anymore suggestions on potential cars would be great if anyone has anymore.

Just saw this thread....

I autocrossed for at least 15 years (also raced Formula Ford) in the stock classes, always with my daily driver and never damaged anything....I won 16 state championships and one Canadian championship...Raced Toyota Tercel, MR2, VW Jetta, Subaru GL !, Fiat X-1/9 (the most championships with this one), Firebird V6 !, Innocenti SL tre cylindri !, etc... All stock !

If you're a smooth driver with a lot of self control that's the way to go !;)

True. Just because you autocross a car, doesn't mean you'll break it. It just needs a little more TLC, and.. depending on the climate (like, if you live in TEXAS *cough* *cough*) you might need to adjust cooling or make sure the engine is warm before you race. Low tire psi, worn treads, and low fluids are your biggest hazards in an autocross race. But, seeing as you just replaced the coolant, it shouldn't be much of a problem. Just keep the tires fresh, the psi at the recommended level (30 - 40 psi im guessing), and the fluids flowing. Unless the car is tuned to hell and you could spin a bearing or blow a turbo, there isn't that much to worry about.

And.. where are you going to crash a car in an autocross race? Cones are the only thing in your way..

Actually, with auto-cross there is a street-rubber class, which is kind of a catch-all for all types of vehicles, and most of the guys who read Import Tuner, watch the FNF movies all night, and show up wanting to be a racecar driver. Everyone in all the really competitive classes run slicks. I think the Hoosiers I has on my RX7 used to be about $109.00 a piece. Crossle, having not really broken anything on a car in that many years of racing, you are a fortunate sumbitch. Due to the short-shifting, quick tach-spiking, frantic braking, and harsh directional changes auto-cross requires, it plays hell on the clutch/tranny, motor, suspension and brakes. Again, you can race a daily driver, but I would not reccomend doing so unless you have the money to quickly repair/replace any of the above.

Actually, with auto-cross there is a street-rubber class, which is kind of a catch-all for all types of vehicles, and most of the guys who read Import Tuner, watch the FNF movies all night, and show up wanting to be a racecar driver. Everyone in all the really competitive classes run slicks. I think the Hoosiers I has on my RX7 used to be about $109.00 a piece. Crossle, having not really broken anything on a car in that many years of racing, you are a fortunate sumbitch. Due to the short-shifting, quick tach-spiking, frantic braking, and harsh directional changes auto-cross requires, it plays hell on the clutch/tranny, motor, suspension and brakes. Again, you can race a daily driver, but I would not reccomend doing so unless you have the money to quickly repair/replace any of the above.Apart fom the first couple of years I used "R" compound tires from the mid-eighties on. Yokohama's A-001R's, A-008R's and BFG Comp T/A R1's.
With the old 1981 X-1/9 I won the Canadian D-stock championship in 1990 and after the first run I had to put the removable fiberglass top back on because in the long and fast turns there was so much body flex that the shifter was popping out of second gear !!!!!!!!!:eek: :D

Thank you both (Crossle and Attaus). Finally some people who think I could do autocross with my M. I want to at elast try one time using the M in an autocross, and like Attaus said, I will only hit cones if I mess up.

But I also know it will wear on the car more than regular driving, but I'd like to try at least one event.

crossle 32f: what did you enter the Jetta into?

Actually, with auto-cross there is a street-rubber class, which is kind of a catch-all for all types of vehicles, and most of the guys who read Import Tuner, watch the FNF movies all night, and show up wanting to be a racecar driver. Everyone in all the really competitive classes run slicks. I think the Hoosiers I has on my RX7 used to be about $109.00 a piece. Crossle, having not really broken anything on a car in that many years of racing, you are a fortunate sumbitch. Due to the short-shifting, quick tach-spiking, frantic braking, and harsh directional changes auto-cross requires, it plays hell on the clutch/tranny, motor, suspension and brakes. Again, you can race a daily driver, but I would not reccomend doing so unless you have the money to quickly repair/replace any of the above.



$109 is about how much my normal street tires cost so that doesnt sound too bad to me. And thanks for the info about the street-rubber class. I think I would run slicks and try to be a little more competative.

I do some SCCA autocrossing while Im up at school. ....I really wouldnt recommend unless you have some money stashed for parts that may break. It can get pretty rough on your car. At the very least you should have a second set of tires for autocrossing only.

I used the Jetta in 1991. It was a 1987 2 door gas model. Although it was a terrific street car ( I put 4 Sachs heavy duty shocks on it + a 25mm front sway bar instead of the stock 18mm ) in autocross I could not get the results. I finished 4th in E/stock in my state championship behind two GTI's ( 1984 and 1990 ) and an 89 Civic. My big concern was the downshift from second to first.....As you know reverse is at the left of first gear and I was rubbing gears when trying to go fast....Those damned slow courses we had back then ! If I didn't have to use first gear for sure I could have won with it, because we had a fast club event that year and I toasted everybody but a B/modified class car !;)

You ran an X-1/9 in D Stock? They're E Stock now. They are one of the best overall road cars made. Have you ever built one up? I mean really built it up? Pull the front and rear trunk pans, stiffen the chassis a bit, fiberglass front end, almost 300 horespower (right around 280 on a dyno), strip the interior (you think an F40 is bare inside!), drill holes along the frame rails... that kind of stuff? Any car can be made fast but when a car that small with an engine that small is built enough to run with open class cars... it's pretty impressive! Not to mention fun as hell!!

No, I didn't have a budget to run anything other than stock...But I missed a road racing X-1/9 (GT3 class in Canada back then) by a few days...Very clean and I would have used it in autocross. It had approx 130 hp from a 1300cc and superb handling. I'll always regret having missed it. When I heard it was for sale he had sold it two days before ! It was only a few thousand bucks !
Ssssssshhhhhhh********ttttttttt !

I've got two... other than the 69 Camaro that's probably my favorite car in the world (okay, behind the 911 too!). They are so fun, even stock they're impressive as hell...

Man this thread is complicated, u guys really know ur stuff

Wow, you guys really have a thing for the X-1/9. Seems like it might be a good track car, but.. I see why it wouldn't be a good street car. Damn! That thing is ugly. Well, it's mid-engined, the strut towers are all visible (no cutting or removing - that's a god sent) and the engine seems relatively simple, but.. I mean, did they only come in brown? lol..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Fiat-Bertone-x-1-9-23K_W0QQitemZ4621408465QQcategoryZ6218QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Heh.. anyway, the MKI MR2 (SC) is where it's at.

Awesome, awesome, awesome! Keep up the racing banter, I'm learning. Keep talking. Say anything about racing, teach me.

And holy crap the X 1/9 is ugly.

Wow, you guys really have a thing for the X-1/9. Seems like it might be a good track car, but.. I see why it wouldn't be a good street car. Damn! That thing is ugly. Well, it's mid-engined, the strut towers are all visible (no cutting or removing - that's a god sent) and the engine seems relatively simple, but.. I mean, did they only come in brown? lol..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Fiat-Bertone-x-1-9-23K_W0QQitemZ4621408465QQcategoryZ6218QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Heh.. anyway, the MKI MR2 (SC) is where it's at.My '81 X-1/9 was orangy-red with tan interior...Loved it !!!!:cool:

Hey, in autocross, and with 75 stock hp, I was beating MR-2's, Supra Turbo's, Iroc Z'S, Corvette's, Trans-Am's, Mustang 5.0's and bunches of modified cars ! Hell, I was regularly first or second overall in fields of 50 + cars !!!! Talk about handling and perfect blend of car and driver over pure horsepower....

The X-1/9's center of gravity is below the chassis of the car. It's as balanced as a car can get. One of mine is yellow and the other one is green. Brown ones are ugly, I must admit. lol... The MR2 is a fun little car but nothing on the track. In fact the Fiero is a better track car. Crossle will agree, a talented, experienced driver in a Fiat will beat an inexperienced, "I LEARNED TO DRIVE PLAYING GT4" driver in a Z06 anyday! lol

My opinion:

No problem autocrossing your daily driver.
I have taken it one step further, and I do time trials, open road racing, and track days in my daily driver (a Viper.)

Where I draw the line with my Viper is wheel to wheel racing with contested corners. Do this enough, and you are going to end up banging into somebody else eventually. I've been considering buying a Miata for club racing. They are relatively inexpensive to buy and to maintain, and if I bang it up, it's not the end of the world.

When I said don't race your daily driver I was talking about racing against other cars. Autocross is totally different. Racing against a clock is fun but to me it's not the same. If you really wanna see what racing's like, rent a track for 4 hours, put someone in pit row to put fuel in your car when you need it, and drive as hard as the car will let you for 4 hours straight. Anybody who's done any kind of endurance racing will tell you... it's fun as hell for the first 1/2 hour then it's 3 1/2 hours of pure hell. Racing cars isn't as easy as most people think.

Thanks for all the talk. This is good stuff.

I think I'm going to try doing some autocross, some time trials, and then maybe I will get into wheel to wheel racing if I get a different car, but I will have to go to license school for the SCCA if I want to do that. It seems like just getting my license could be relatively expensive. So nothing can really happen right now, cause I dont have much money and I need to get a new suspension for my car first because it's shot in the rear. I am going to get a coilover set so I can set the car up for autocross and time trials.

Thanks for all the insight, keep it coming.

Any way we can help. It's a fun sport to get into but remember it's not a video game. Even racing a stock 4 banger can be dangerous. No matter what... do it right, don't cut corners just to save money. I've done that, back when I first started racing, and I regretted it real quick. Take the time to buy good tires! Ask around and see what the guys who drive the same kind of car as you do use for tires. Different brands work well with different set-ups. Pirelli makes a great tire, I use them on my Fiats, but when I had my 912 I used Goodyears because of the different camber on the Porsche. Trial and error is expensive but will save you time and money in the long run... The most important thing to remember is that tires can win or lose a race.

When I said don't race your daily driver I was talking about racing against other cars. Autocross is totally different. Racing against a clock is fun but to me it's not the same. If you really wanna see what racing's like, rent a track for 4 hours, put someone in pit row to put fuel in your car when you need it, and drive as hard as the car will let you for 4 hours straight. Anybody who's done any kind of endurance racing will tell you... it's fun as hell for the first 1/2 hour then it's 3 1/2 hours of pure hell. Racing cars isn't as easy as most people think.I was in moderately good shape (no work-out for me !)5'10" and 160lbs and after 30 minutes Formula Ford races I was glad it was over, even more when it was extremely humid, as is the norm in Quebec during the summer...:eek:

Yes, racing requires good shape, don't forget that you wear fire protection underwear, gloves, balaclava and suit + a full face helmet...You can barely breathe !

Hell I'm twice as big as you are and 6 inches taller! I know what you mean! After we lightened my Fiat I had to mount weights along the passenger side to even it out. I can handle the firesuit (I wear leathers when I ride, I'm used to the feeling), but balaclava's are the most annoying thing in the world. I never can get used to wearing one, no matter how long I wear one!

How much would you estimate it costs to buy all of the necessary racing equipment (I mean like drivers stuff such as glove, suit, etc.)?

And, do you know if a motorcycle helmet is up to SCCA specs?

Helmet $150 - 200

Racing Suit - $300 - 800

Shoes - $89 - 120

Gloves - $100

Balaclava - $20

Socks - $20

That's for brand new 100% racing equipment, not apparel. It's expensive stuff.. I thought all you needed for SCCA was a helmet and a fire exstinguisher..?

For autocrossing you only need a recent Snell approved helmet. Motorcycle helmet is OK, as far as I know. It's been a long time since I checked a rulebook...Otherwise, Attaus' estimates are pretty accurate.

Helmet $150 - 200

Racing Suit - $300 - 800

Shoes - $89 - 120

Gloves - $100

Balaclava - $20

Socks - $20

That's for brand new 100% racing equipment, not apparel. It's expensive stuff.. I thought all you needed for SCCA was a helmet and a fire exstinguisher..?

Thanks Attaus.

I WISH they were that cheap... for my size! lol...

How much would you estimate it costs to buy all of the necessary racing equipment (I mean like drivers stuff such as glove, suit, etc.)?

And, do you know if a motorcycle helmet is up to SCCA specs?
I would get the automotive helmet instead of the motorcycle one (e.g., SA2005 instead of M2005). It has the fire-ret*rdant lining. I'm upgrading from open-face to full face helmet.
I wouldn't go cheap. Well, it depends on how much your head is worth, I guess!

BTW - some good advice in this thread.

I recommend you check out some of the HPDE (High Performance Driver Education) events or track days. I have started going to NASA events and they offer classroom training and in-car instructors. The instructor is the best thing you will get for learning road racing. You can graduate to full-out racing.

http://www.nasaproracing.com/index.html
There are numerous others.

Edit - I see the forum blocks some words, even those not offensive!!
The missing letters above rhyme with weetard! LOL

and don't forget if ANYTHINg happens all that stuff needs to be replaced...Meaning it's another 2g's in equipment all over again....

AND they have to be replaced after X amount of time aswell due to both wear and tare and new standards being enforced.

and don't forget if ANYTHINg happens all that stuff needs to be replaced...Meaning it's another 2g's in equipment all over again....

AND they have to be replaced after X amount of time aswell due to both wear and tare and new standards being enforced.

You are talking driver equipment right?

yuppers...Sorry for just jumpin in..i didn't feel like quoting..

Hey everyone. I called a guy about a 1973 Porsche 914. It doesnt have seats and the inside door panels are missing because he took them out to repaint the car, but, if its a running car, or can be made to run for cheap would it be a good track car? Also, do you guys know what catagories I could run the car in, in the SCCA?

The price right now is $1600. He said its been in a barn for the past 10 years and he just brought it out not long ago so he could paint it. He also said he has extra motors and other parts.

Your thoughts?

i raced go-karts here in PR. left racing cause here we don't have events like solo or autocross so i can't race my car.I onced raced go karts in egypt. I started last and because I did not break at all I came second place.

Hey everyone. I called a guy about a 1973 Porsche 914. It doesnt have seats and the inside door panels are missing because he took them out to repaint the car, but, if its a running car, or can be made to run for cheap would it be a good track car? Also, do you guys know what catagories I could run the car in, in the SCCA?

The price right now is $1600. He said its been in a barn for the past 10 years and he just brought it out not long ago so he could paint it. He also said he has extra motors and other parts.

Your thoughts?That's a great track car. There's not much better than a 914 without sponsorship money... It would be B Stock if it's a 914/6, C Stock if it's a 4 cylinder. Street Prep Class A for the 6 and Street Prep Class D for the 4. Those are the four classes for the 914. I'd leave the door panels out anyway. Strip the rest of the interior, put a basic 6 point lightweight cage in it. Reinforce the A pillars. Pull both of the trunk pans out and weld cross bars in the front. DON'T cut the springs but have it lowered and stiffened by someone who knows Porsche's. It's a bit of money to have it done (no more than $400 probably). It will be WELL worth it. Have fun with it. Don't take this wrong cause I don't know anything about your experience but LEARN how to drive it correctly. The 914 is a tricky car for someone who's not used to racing a mid-engine. There are classes you can take and people at local tracks are usually glad to help someone who's serious about learning.

Hey everyone. I called a guy about a 1973 Porsche 914. It doesnt have seats and the inside door panels are missing because he took them out to repaint the car, but, if its a running car, or can be made to run for cheap would it be a good track car? Also, do you guys know what catagories I could run the car in, in the SCCA?

The price right now is $1600. He said its been in a barn for the past 10 years and he just brought it out not long ago so he could paint it. He also said he has extra motors and other parts.

Your thoughts?Very funny ! I owned a '73 914 1.7liter back in '77-78. Extraordinary road holding, even with the skinny 165-15 Michelin XAS tires we used back then but a lot of body flex, an akward gearbox (doesn't like to be rushed) and expensive parts. I once replaced the wiper linkage and it cost half the price of a decent motorcycle back then, haha !

I guess you could install a roll cage and /or body braces to solve the flexing but make sure the mechanical side of it is strong and the MAIN THING: MAKE SURE IT'S NOT A RUST BUCKET !!!! Not only the outside body but the structure like the floor and suspension mounting points....

If it's OK then $1600 is a REAL bargain !;)

That's a great track car. There's not much better than a 914 without sponsorship money... It would be B Stock if it's a 914/6, C Stock if it's a 4 cylinder. Street Prep Class A for the 6 and Street Prep Class D for the 4. Those are the four classes for the 914. I'd leave the door panels out anyway. Strip the rest of the interior, put a basic 6 point lightweight cage in it. Reinforce the A pillars. Pull both of the trunk pans out and weld cross bars in the front. DON'T cut the springs but have it lowered and stiffened by someone who knows Porsche's. It's a bit of money to have it done (no more than a $400 probably). It will be WELL worth it. Have fun with it. Don't take this wrong cause I don't know anything about your experience but LEARN how to drive it correctly. The 914 is a tricky car for someone who's not used to racing a mid-engine. There are classes you can take and people at local tracks are usually glad to help someone who's serious about learning.

Awesome! Your getting me pumped up. Thank you so much for the info. I'm excited, and I dont even know if I will get the car (money is needed and I dont have much right now). I also figured I would leave the door panels off and just strip the car down.

Also, I would probably take the car to some tracks in the area on a track day so that I could get used to driving it, because like you said, it's mid-engined. I live in the country, so I may get a bit antsy about driving it and take it out on the road. (I know it wouldnt be legal).

Cutting the springs is bad idea on any car I thought? Do some people just cut the springs on their track cars or something?

Thanks for all the info about the classes I can race and about preparing the car for the track. I'm going to print the things you've posted about the car so I can have them on hand.

Anything else you can tell me? Or anyone else?

Very funny ! I owned a '73 914 1.7liter back in '77-78. Extraordinary road holding, even with the skinny 165-15 Michelin XAS tires we used back then but a lot of body flex, an akward gearbox (doesn't like to be rushed) and expensive parts. I once replaced the wiper linkage and it cost half the price of a decent motorcycle back then, haha !



I guess you could install a roll cage and /or body braces to solve the flexing but make sure the mechanical side of it is strong and the MAIN THING: MAKE SURE IT'S NOT A RUST BUCKET !!!! Not only the outside body but the structure like the floor and suspension mounting points....


If it's OK then $1600 is a REAL bargain !

I didnt see your post crossel, so I'm editing it in.

Yea, I heard from my uncle that I need to check and see if the battery has rusted out the frame. When I go to look my first priority is going to be frame rust and decay. Then the motor. Do you think its an expensive car to maintain as a track car? Monkey said it wasnt, but you said somethings were expensive.

Awesome! Your getting me pumped up. Thank you so much for the info. I'm excited, and I dont even know if I will get the car (money is needed and I dont have much right now). I also figured I would leave the door panels off and just strip the car down.

Also, I would probably take the car to some tracks in the area on a track day so that I could get used to driving it, because like you said, it's mid-engined. I live in the country, so I may get a bit antsy about driving it and take it out on the road. (I know it wouldnt be legal).

Cutting the springs is bad idea on any car I thought? Do some people just cut the springs on their track cars or something?

Thanks for all the info about the classes I can race and about preparing the car for the track. I'm going to print the things you've posted about the car so I can have them on hand.

Anything else you can tell me? Or anyone else?



I didnt see your post crossel, so I'm editing it in.

Yea, I heard from my uncle that I need to check and see if the battery has rusted out the frame. When I go to look my first priority is going to be frame rust and decay. Then the motor. Do you think its an expensive car to maintain as a track car? Monkey said it wasnt, but you said somethings were expensive.Yeah a lot more people cut their springs than you'd expect. It's a quick fix. 914's are a bit cheaper to maintain now than when old man Crossle was racing! lol... j/k Cross... To be honest with you no car is cheap to race. But if you really love it, it's worth every penny!

Yeah a lot more people cut their springs than you'd expect. It's a quick fix. 914's are a bit cheaper to maintain now than when old man Crossle was racing! lol... j/k Cross... To be honest with you no car is cheap to race. But if you really love it, it's worth every penny!

Well thanks for all the info. If you think of anything else, please post it for me.

Thanks you guys.

In the SCCA Run Off's in '05, Robert Kirby's( the old man died earlier in the season I think, RIP) Porsche 914 was raced by a competitive driver (sorry I don't remember his name) and won it's class. It was F-Production if I remember well, but anyway the point is that a well prepared car can be competitive even if the design is somewhat old. But honestly try to buy that winning 914 and let me know what they're asking for it.....I would'nt be surprised if it was in the $30-40,000 range !

That's a good price for a track proven car with a winning history...

I think the 914 I am looking at is a convertable, is this a set back?

And thats awesome to hear these cars are still winning to this day.

Another question, can the car's motor have any work done to it? Like say different internals and such? And what about things like port and polish and head work?

Also, can the car have things like lightened flys and racing clutches?

Or would all of this make it have too much of an advantage and disqualify it from the racing groups you described to me earlier?

Sorry for all the questions. And thanks for everything.

I have wanted to get a CAMS licence (Motor racing licence for Australians so you can race competitively on tracks) for quite a long time. Its one of those things that I have never gotten around to doing but I believe it would be worthwhile. One of my friends has had his CAMS junior licence since he was 12 which allowed him to do time trial laps on his own but not compete against other racers. He drove his dads GTR all the time at the track and was even allowed to participate in hillclimbs. He now has his full CAMS licence and is hoping to get in to formula fords through fast karting.

I have wanted to get a CAMS licence (Motor racing licence for Australians so you can race competitively on tracks) for quite a long time. Its one of those things that I have never gotten around to doing but I believe it would be worthwhile. One of my friends has had his CAMS junior licence since he was 12 which allowed him to do time trial laps on his own but not compete against other racers. He drove his dads GTR all the time at the track and was even allowed to participate in hillclimbs. He now has his full CAMS licence and is hoping to get in to formula fords through fast karting.

Thats awesome. I hope to be getting my SCCA Competition racing license on May 20th, as long as I can get a sports physical and all the papers turned in before then.

I dont know if I need to have my racing license to do hillclimbs and time trials, because I plan to do those too.

I am yet to book a test for my CAMS licence. Hopefully when I have some more money and some spare weekends.

You can do hillclimbs here on a normal drivers licence and time trials on a normal drivers licence if you belong to a club and they have hired a track.

He didnt have a drivers licence when he was 12 but was able to participate because he had a CAMS junior licence.

Just thinking of a 12 year old tearing up a track with a GTR is amazing.

I am yet to book a test for my CAMS licence. Hopefully when I have some more money and some spare weekends.

You can do hillclimbs here on a normal drivers licence and time trials on a normal drivers licence if you belong to a club and they have hired a track.

He didnt have a drivers licence when he was 12 but was able to participate because he had a CAMS junior licence.

Just thinking of a 12 year old tearing up a track with a GTR is amazing.

Yea, if he started when he was 12 doing that, I'm sure he is amazing now.

He is a very good driver now, Like I said he is driving superkarts at the moment hoping to get in to formula ford which would be great.

His dad also races sprint boats on the international circuit. He is very exposed to high speeds and engines now.

Bloody hell, 12!


And for somebody to know "all that" about cars, driving and racing is amazing.

One thing though, unless he was a monster, how'd he reach pedals, see through window etc.?

This is a GTR as in Nissan Skyline you talk of right?

Bloody hell, 12!


And for somebody to know "all that" about cars, driving and racing is amazing.

One thing though, unless he was a monster, how'd he reach pedals, see through window etc.?

This is a GTR as in Nissan Skyline you talk of right?

Yes, GTR-33 V-spec. He was pretty tall but still had to move the seat forward a lot and the dash in skylines are relatively low and sleek which helped alot.

Once I am old enough to drive, I will be able to post a story hear. I promise I will despite my sig.

I think the 914 I am looking at is a convertable, is this a set back?

And thats awesome to hear these cars are still winning to this day.

Another question, can the car's motor have any work done to it? Like say different internals and such? And what about things like port and polish and head work?

Also, can the car have things like lightened flys and racing clutches?

Or would all of this make it have too much of an advantage and disqualify it from the racing groups you described to me earlier?

Sorry for all the questions. And thanks for everything.914's are all targa top cars. Can the motor have work done to it? lol... probably more than any other Porsche made! Have you ever seen what can be done to an old VW Bug? Same engine pretty much.

I'll defer to others on reinforcement, but, yes, look for rust. I have a little experience with the World's Cheapest Porsche; a nickname applied to a friend's $550 (early '80's) 1970 914.

Front brakes, hubs, and bearings are straight VW 411/412. No need to cut front springs; they have torsion bars. The engine and fuel injection are pretty much standard suitcase VW.

www.autoatlanta.com (http://www.autoatlanta.com) can give you an idea on parts prices.

Thanks for the link and info Steve.

And thanks for the info monkey.

I went and looked at the car on Sunday. The interior was stripped as the guy said. But thats not a problem, since I would do the same thing. The guy said that one of the valves is sticking a little and doesnt close all the way. And because of this it taps the piston when he turns the motor over. He said all I have to do though is take off the head and spray some WD-40 on the valve to get it to work again. He said besides that the motor should run... Who knows if this is true or not, but I'm not worried about having to do some motor work, I'd like the experience. I just hope that the "tapping" valve isnt a crushed valve that killed the piston and cylinder walls. But he talked like it wasnt sticking out far enough do any damage.

As far as rust, there was some. Up by the pedals there was some rust in the floor. And I could see light coming through where the firewall would be if it was a front engined car. Underneath didnt look too bad with rust. There was a little but I didnt get a super good look because all 4 tires were flat and it was sitting low.

There was also some rust coming through the back wall which is between the cabin and the engine.

The floor seemed a little weak from rust in areas, but I think it could be fixed with a new floor pan or a sheet metal rebuild.

The motor that is in the car is the 1.7L or at least thats what the guy told me. He also said though that he has a parts car (which I saw from afar) that has a 2.0L motor that can be swapped into the car. He said he was going to do the swap and restore the car but he started some new projects and decided not to do it.

How much rust is too much rust? I know you guys cant see the car so its hard to judge... but can the floor be rebuilt if its bad?

Thanks again.

A genuine 2.0 (914S) engine is very rare. Bigger ports/valves make a unique aircooled VW head. You could come out ahead on extra parts even with a rustbucket.

A genuine 2.0 (914S) engine is very rare. Bigger ports/valves make a unique aircooled VW head. You could come out ahead on extra parts even with a rustbucket.

Is there any quick way I could tell that the engine is a genuine 2.0? For all I know this guy could be lying through his teeth to me.

He said he was going to do the swap and restore the car but he started some new projects and decided not to do it.

Hahaha....

That's code for "there's too much work. I just gave up."

Trust me.. everyone always has another project when they want to get rid of their rust bucket.. I'd be careful.

Hahaha....

That's code for "there's too much work. I just gave up."

Trust me.. everyone always has another project when they want to get rid of their rust bucket.. I'd be careful.

Yea, I sort of thought the same thing. But this guy also had about 20 other old european cars scattered around his property, including a BMW 2002 and a 6-series. There were a couple other old 5-series and some old VWs. And he had some old euro bikes that he was working on when I was there, ever heard of a Motoguzzi or something like that?

Only once in a song..

lol

Yea, I sort of thought the same thing. But this guy also had about 20 other old european cars scattered around his property, including a BMW 2002 and a 6-series. There were a couple other old 5-series and some old VWs. And he had some old euro bikes that he was working on when I was there, ever heard of a Motoguzzi or something like that?

Motoguzzi is a brand of motorcycles. Italian I though they were. Made some motorcycles with boxer engines.
Hell to drive on only a single working cylinder but the only Guzzi I tried choked on a valve @ 60MPH and therefor only had 1 cylilnder left. Shake like hell those things. Out of balance, it was. :-k

I always thought the Ducati monster is a far more charming bike.

I always thought the Ducati monster is a far more charming bike.

I don't get the appeal behind the Ducati's design. My extended family are all bike-nuts, one of my cousins has a new(ish) 748, but I don't think it's anywhere near as good looking as my other cousin's new ZX10. Nor is at as fast as my old man's GSXR750, and that thing has a carby. Gotta love Air-ram :D

Well, the charm in the ducati monster (900 preferrable) is in the lack of design :)

http://www.ebbot.net/ducati/m900crsp/images/pics/startpage/start_bike.jpg

See, it's a chassis with an engine, 2 wheels and handlebars.
I don't like all these aerodynamic gizmos on bikes. It's so futile.

EDIT:: well, minimalism is still design. It even takes more consideration then slapping teh bike full with panels.

Whoa.... it looks heaps better now it's naked. :D

I love the headlamps, they're so much better than the single, massive one you see on a lot of naked/chop jobs.

Is there any quick way I could tell that the engine is a genuine 2.0? For all I know this guy could be lying through his teeth to me.Does it have carburetors? The 4 cylinders were all fuel injected. If you find a 4 that's carburated, find out why it was changed over. Check the rear suspension. The 2.0 6 had heavier suspension than the 1.7, 1.8, and 2.0 4 cylinders. The 914/6 was never 'officially' released here in the US but a lot of them were brought here to race. The 1970 and 1971 6's aren't that hard to find but the 1972 6 is rare, very rare. Like $20,000 and up rare! Remember this though, any Porsche fan will tell you that you'll never find a rust-free 914... or 924 for that matter. I read in a web site that if you find a 914 with no rust check it again, you'll find some! lol... Also, grinding a bit into first (or a crunching sound) is normal.

Dammit. I nearly bought a monster during my lunch break.
Realised I don't have a bike licence and in germany that seems to be a problem :rolleyes:

(I work right across a bike store. meanies)

LOL... I wanted a Ducatti for a long time until I woke up and realized that they're really aren't worth the price...

This one was rather cheap and 2nd hand. :D

oh, and it looked good actually. I'm now wondeing how long it would take me to get a licence. Do they sell those with boxes of cereal? Bet that if I'd have to pass a test I'd fail due to speeding :/

Does it have carburetors? The 4 cylinders were all fuel injected. If you find a 4 that's carburated, find out why it was changed over. Check the rear suspension. The 2.0 6 had heavier suspension than the 1.7, 1.8, and 2.0 4 cylinders. The 914/6 was never 'officially' released here in the US but a lot of them were brought here to race. The 1970 and 1971 6's aren't that hard to find but the 1972 6 is rare, very rare. Like $20,000 and up rare! Remember this though, any Porsche fan will tell you that you'll never find a rust-free 914... or 924 for that matter. I read in a web site that if you find a 914 with no rust check it again, you'll find some! lol... Also, grinding a bit into first (or a crunching sound) is normal.


The 2.0L was a four cylinder. And I never looked at it cause it was in the other 914. But the 1.7L in the car I looked at was fuel injected. I dont remember any carbs sitting on top of the motor.

I think I'm going to try and get the car as soon as I can make some cash. The rust seems like it can be easily fixed, but I will check it out a little closer and take my dad this time. He's real good at checking that kind of stuff.